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登山

懸垂のベストプラクティス

投稿日:2013年8月16日 更新日:

How to Rig a 2-Ring Retrievable Anchor

  • 捨て縄の支点を簡単に回収できる。

Problems when rappelling

  • イタリアンヒッチではランナーをロープに挟んでおく
  • ロープがスタックした時の対応方法

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1066576

  • Now lower out nearly half of the rope from the anchor side so there is a long loop from the anchor back up to your coils. Now toss these coils….
  • but make sure you dont try to aim the toss anywhere but dead horizontal away from the rock. Not up, not down just out!
  • The large loop you let out already lets the rope move far away from the rock before coming tight on the anchor in any way ‘tugging’ the coils into a snarl.
  • get good at coiling with progressively smaller coils so the top ones don’t grab the bottom ones and pull them out of your lap.
  • ロープバッグ

http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.jp/2010/06/saddlebags-for-rappelling.html

  • ロープをハーネスにぶら下げる

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/why-throw-ropes-for-rappel/108093931#a_108094115

  • なぜロープを投げるのか、落としたほうがいいのではないかという議論

http://www.innergycoaching.com/goclimb511/gc-101.php

  • 懸垂の手順が順番に細かく記載されている。

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/how-to-coil-rope-in-slings-for-rappels/106938319#a_106940886
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=527990

  • ロープの末端から塊をつくってカラビナにかけておく、さらにその端から支点に近い側は落とす
  • 懸垂を開始する。ロープが足りなくなったらカラビナからロープの塊を解除する。

http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/HangingBelay.htm

  • ハンギングビレイーで快適にする方法
  • first start to lap coil over say a sling you will need to make large loops which will progressively become smaller. This way as you can see you cannot pick up a loop which could end up in a tangle just when you don’t need it.

http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Mistakes.htm

  • クライミング技術全般に関するミスについてまとめている

http://www.climbingtechniques.org/rope-management.html

  • ロープバスケット
  •  Your coils should start at your harness and move one by one toward your anchor. If you run out of space, place the next coil at your harness and repeat. This will keep them neat and less likely to tangle. The more care you take in making the coils neat, the same length and in the correct order, the less likely you are to have a tangle.
  • 複数コイル
  • You can also move around as much as necessary without disturbing the rope. As you take in rope, you will tie knots every 15 to 20 feet and clip them into carabiners attached to the anchor or your harness.

http://dreaminvertical.blogspot.jp/2008/02/rope-management-101.html

  •  connect my daisy chain at it’s greatest length and then adjust the length of my clove-hitched rope to the anchor such that it’s either about 1 foot longer or shorter than my daisy chain.Then I pull the ropes up one by one and coil each onto either my rope leash or my daisy chain. I continue to coil the ropes like this as I belay the followers up. That way you get each rope in a separate (hopefully neat!) coil so they will be relatively unknotted for whoever leads next.
  • You can coil one (or both, if you have them) ropes and wrap a sling around each one (clipping the ends of the sling into the same carabiner. You don’t want it to to be wrapped too tight or else it won’t feed well while rappelling. Clip your rap device on the rope and you’re ready to go. No more stuck ropes (or, at least, one less).

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/stacking-the-rope-for-multipitch/107269750#a_107270503

  • This is generally what I find to be the best if I am not swapping leads. Even if I’m clove hitched to the anchor I just clip a sling from my belay loop to the MP, the second does the same, you swop rope ends, then you can unclip the slings and you are still anchored with the clove on the rope.
  • I coil using the same length coils the whole time then just flip it over onto my partner’s lap. With some management they should be able to feed you rope without holding you up, it just takes management.
  • they hand me a single sling with all the gear on it. I re-rack as they either flip or re-stack the rope

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=915098

  • this is one way that works: keep the ropes flaked out in seperate piles. clove hitch one of the ropes to something (the anchor, or yourself) to keep it from flying away while you’re setting up. Tie large stopper knots in the end of each rope. Do not tie the ends together … the ropes will be unable to twist freely while you rap, and will be much more prone to kinking and tangling. butterfly coil about 15m at the end of the first rope (preferably the fat one). This works much better than trying to throw the middle section. Throw it out and DOWN. Repeat for the second rope.
  • Read that last part again; it’s important. You want to pull the bottom strand, because pulling the top strand can pin the rope against the rock. And you want the bottom strand to be the skinny rope, because it’s much easier for skinny ropes to get tossed by the wind and to hang up on features.*

http://climbing.about.com/od/rappelling/a/How-To-Toss-Rappel-Ropes.htm

  • Don’t coil the entire strand of rope, thinking that you will toss all the rope at once—that will cause lots of kinks, snarls, and knots that you will have to undo while you are rappelling.
  • 分析すること
    • Do they need to be angled off to the left because that’s where the next set of rappel anchors is located?
    • Do you want them positioned so that you rappel down a slab rather than over a big roof?
    • Are there flakes that the ropes could hang up on? And how can you avoid them when you toss the ropes?
    • Are there cracks that the rappel ropes can snake into and get stuck?
    • Is there any wind that could carry the ropes around the corner of the buttress below and snag them on flakes?
    • Where are ledges, bushes, and trees that could grab and hang up your rappel rope?

http://www.climbingtechniques.org/rappellingabseiling.html

  • Make sure both ends of your rope are flaked. We suggest throwing each half of the rope on its own, coiled separately, off the cliff. Some throw both halves at the same time, but we’ve

http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=5950

  • 懸垂下降をスピードアップするための手順

懸垂するロープの束ね方や投げ方に関係すること

  • 左右に振る必要があるか
  • 特定の場所に位置する必要があるか(roofではなくてスラブとか)
  • flakeにひっかかるか
  • 風により予期せぬ場所にロープが飛んでいかないか
  • 木はあるか
  • 下に人はいるか
  • 岩は脆いか
  • 行く場所はわかっているか

覚えておく単語

  • coil
  • snag
  • tangle
  • flake
  • rope bascket
  • swinging leads

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